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RNY became the first in the chain of Abercrombie & Fitch brands

2009.07.04

Despite the secretive nature, rumors circulated about a “distinct departure” from the A&F style. It was evident that A&F sought to maintain consumers past ages 18 through 22. The concept was to venture out as more mature and sophisticated, all the while keeping it youthful. Encouraging studies revealed that 35-to-40-year-olds shop to look 25. The brand was privately unveiled to investors-only on “Investor Day” September 7, 2004. The presentation was at Garden State Plaza in New Jersey.[11] At the introduction and press tour of the Westfield Garden State Plaza location, Jeffries noted that RUEHL is “the fantasy of what it’s like to graduate from college and go to New York and make it. It’s the New York fantasy.” He also repeatedly referred to RUEHL as “the movie” because of its elaborate, flowing background.

RUEHL No.925 finally opened on September 24, 2004 with three locations. These were at Garden State Plaza (New Jersey), Woodfield Mall (Illinois), and the International Plaza (Florida). Designed to look and feel like Greenwich Village, RUEHL really presented a new, “more sophisticated” lifestyle than other Abercrombie & Fitch brands. The store prototype of this time was a two-floor prototype measuring at 9,500 sq ft (880 m2). Due to its structural form and size, locations capable of housing the prototype became hard to acquire.
Mike Jeffries did not launch an online store upon the opening of RUEHL. He wanted to attract customers to the stores to experience the RUEHL atmosphere. What was launched was a promotional website which gave store listings, previewed the private online policy, and allowed for email subscription to receive news on RUEHL.

Original prices upon opening were roughly 30% higher than at Abercrombie & Fitch (e.g. destroyed blue jeans $148.00 USD[6]). Many consumers deemed this as too high for young professionals who normally begin their careers at fair incomes.

In June 2005, writer Alex Kuczynski published an article in The New York Times about her experience in the store at Garden State Plaza. She described the facade as “something provocative and different,” and compared the store greeter to a “nightclub bouncer on the watch for good-looking customers.” Kuczynski wrote that the store name conjures up actress Mercedes Ruehl and her hapless roles; “try as it might, the name just doesn’t sound cool.” She also criticized the lighting techniques, saying that the dimness may encourage shoplifting and that “people at that age [20's and 30's] aspiring to the heights of sangfroid that Ruehl appears to promote would never deign to exert effort to find the right size, let alone spend 10 minutes squinting at a skirt to discern its color”, a shame because “the clothing is worth the time and the money.” She said prices were “reasonable”, giving as an example $158 for the best-selling “destroyed” blue jeans.

The advertisement for the launch of the online store.In early 2007, RUEHL925.com became RUEHL.com and was upgraded as an Adobe Flash Player page. Also, to accommodate expansion, a new store prototype was developed measuring at 7,200 sq ft (670 m2). This new prototype encompasses one sales level only, reducing construction costs and increasing opportunities to secure prime locations.[12] A limited online store was finally launched on October 25, 2007. It sold fragrances and handbags in a limited quantity of styles. By the end of the year, in an effort to retain consumer basis, price points for RUEHL clothing were significantly lowered as so to create a minimal 10-15% difference between Abercrombie & Fitch and RUEHL No.925 clothing. A&F rose its jeans prices to make a $10 USD difference between its jeans and RUEHL’s. January 30, 2008 marked the launch of the full online store.

RUEHL marketing photography has a blue color scheme and is more sophisticated than Abercrombie & Fitch. Noticeably, some imagery uses angles of Greenwich Village as a backdrop. Jeffries has made it clear that sex in marketing is a continual importance in RUEHL advertising.[7] For that reason, Bruce Weber shoots all campaigns. He is most noted for his provocative and sexual, beefcake work with Calvin Klein underwear and A&F. Photography from RUEHL’s early days evolved from sepia and dark green color schemes before settling on blue. High-profile models have appeared in RUEHL marketing campaigns, including Miranda Kerr and Kim Stolz.
The brand has used the appropriate slogan, “Visit us in the Village.” Its main marketing logo “RUEHL / No.925 / Greenwich Street / New York” has been revised and replaced with “RUEHL / No.925 / Greenwich St / New York, NY”. It mimics as an actual address. And unlike other A&F brands which rely on and owe their success to walking self-marketing in schools, RUEHL must follow more rigid advertisement techniques to make itself more known to the public.

Marketing techniques used on RUEHL have not benefited revenue expectations for the brand. The average RNY store generated sales of over $3.2 million USD in 2006. In comparison to Hollister’s outstanding popularity and sales by 2004 (four years after its opening), revenue from RUEHL by 2008 has not been satisfying. Giving R925 more of a resemblance to the A&F style (noticeable on Hollister), but maintaining flare, is a marketing move being practiced to increase figures (by attracting same-company customers). Potted palm trees (found in A&F/HCO stores) have been added instore. The “RUEHL No.925″ name is stamped and embroidered more noticeably. Recently reduced price points will also make it easier for same-company customers to enter the RUEHL market, and the new store prototype will gain faster expansion than before. Even production rollouts have been made similar to its sister brands. A&F hopes that RUEHL will eventually grow as a strong, popular, post-grad brand: similar to A&F with collegiates and Hollister with high-schoolers. Customers seeking a more dark and mature look will find RUEHL their choice out of all Abercrombie and Fitch’s brands.

The official logo for RUEHL No.925 is the French bulldog Trubble. He is the little “inquisitive” bulldog with a “steadfast demeanor” and “confident attitude” who walked into the Ruehl family shop in the mid-1850s - so states the fictional background to RUEHL. He was, as the fake literature continues, the family’s first customer (to their surprise and delight). Subsequently, Trubble became the logo for the brand.

His name, “Trubble”, is a play on the word “trouble.” It signifies the trouble that Mike Jeffries and his development team underwent to create an appealing logo for RUEHL. Before deciding on Trubble, the company experimented with different designs on RNY polos. The logos included: “R925″; an artistically cursive “R”; and “RUEHL / No.925″. The bulldog from the RUEHL background was finally selected and christened “Trubble” - a sort of counterpart to the Abercrombie moose, the flying Hollister Co. seagull, and the Gilly Hicks Koala. Trubble is today embroidered on Polos and silk-screened on other merchandise. Trubble also occasionally has a series of tees dedicated to his iconic image.

RUEHL released the marketing slogan “Get into Trubble at RUEHL” in August 2008.

Merchandise cycles in stores weekly and there are four main seasonal clothing rollouts. These are the Spring, Summer, Fall, and Christmas seasons. In efforts to entice consumers, books, newspapers, and fresh flowers are also on sale. Merchandise is made only available in RUEHL stores and at RUEHL.com.
The sophisticated Ezra Fitch Collection by Abercrombie & Fitch released in 2004 and discontinued later on shares a similarity to RUEHL clothing.

For its fragrance collection, RUEHL carries Signature (both cologne and perfume) and R-4 perfume and R-7 cologne. Signature cologne is the representing scent of the brand, and is sprayed at intervals throughout the day in-store.
RNY became the first in the chain of Abercrombie & Fitch brands to produce a genuine leather goods line for both men and women. Because of low purchasing rates, however, the men’s leather goods were discontinued (e.g. wallets and messenger bags). Women’s bags, however, remain quite popular. Purse prices are at level with Coach prices for competition. However, some RUEHL purses have reached the amount of $898 USD. Celebrity patrons of RUEHL who enjoy the bags include Ali Larter, Katherine Heigl, Minka Kelly, and Vanessa Ann Hudgens. A favorite of theirs became “Anabelle,” a white leather clutch which “…is everything that this season’s It bag wants to be.”

It has been a difficult decision to close RUEHL, a brand we continue to believe could have been successful in different circumstances. However, given the current economic environment, we believe it is in the best interests of the Company to focus its efforts and resources on the growth opportunities afforded by our other brands, particularly internationally. While I am disappointed with the ultimate outcome, I am grateful for the effort and commitment the RUEHL team has shown in developing and positioning that brand in the marketplace. In particular, the recent strides made in differentiating and elevating the RUEHL assortment make this an especially difficult decision. However, all of our brands will benefit from our experience and lessons learned with RUEHL.
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