Japan Diaries [Day 4]

Day 4 [September 29th]

* We experience the JR (train) system during peak hour in the morning for the first time ~ what chaos! Everyone seems to know exactly where they’re going except us (and there are complex transport etiquette rules that we have no idea about?). Sadly, I see no “train pushers”, something I had heard about before heading to Tokyo, but commuters push their way into carriages when there is seemingly no room, cramming others in further! This is the closest I have seen to ‘rudeness’ while in Japan. In now understand why trains in Japan have little seating – to make as much room for standing commuters.

* Japan seems to have a fascination with umbrellas. So many different kinds, everybody on the street either seems to be carrying or using one (which is strange in comparison to Melbourne, where we get little rain and if it DOES rain, is only a very light sprinkling). We walk from our hotel and get stared at many, many times by people (because it’s spitting rain and we’re umbrella-less, I assume?). Give into peer pressure and buy a 500Y one at a convenience store. Problem solved – no more staring!

* Glad for the umbrella as the weather gets worse! Take our longest-yet train trip (40min) to Mitaka station, to get to the Ghibli Museum! A bus covered in Totoros and Nekobuses comes to pick everyone up from the bus station, unfortunately we don’t fit and wait for a simple red local bus instead (boo) :(

* Devoted to the history of Studio Ghibli animated films (such as Kiki’s Delivery Service, Mononoke Hime and Spirited Away), the Ghibli Museum is well worth the money! Not too crowded as only a certain number of tickets are sold per day (we had to purchase ours online from Australia, at the beginning of September). Rooms at the museum are devoted to the history of animation in Japan, characters and stills from Ghibli films, with mini doors to discover and spiral staircases to climb up. The motto of the place is “Lets lose our way, together!”, and describes it well! While no photos are allowed inside the museum, we take plenty outside and eat lunch in an outdoor café (Western food, Japanese style).

* We wanted to check out the nearby Inokashira Park on the way back (recommended in Lonely Planet), but the weather is even more miserable and actually COLD by now (first time since touching down here!), so we get a bus back to the train station instead.

* Late afternoon is Shinjuku, where I find every young person in Tokyo under age 25 also seems to be! I thought crowds in Akihabara were full-on ~ this is ten times worse! Apparently Shinjuku is a good place to shop, but I find a lot of the stores are out of my price range. Instead of individual stores, Shinjuku seems to be made up of giant department stores (some spanning 16 floors!), with different labels and mini-stores scattered on each floor (much like a Myer store here in Aus., but the money goes to each brand, not to the store in general). Confusing at first, but I get the hang of it. I fall in love with a red jacket with ribbons, a turquoise cardigan and numerous sparkly handbags ~ all a little pricey but beautiful! I don’t buy anything but later wish I had. :(

* Experience first-hand “Lolita” fashion, which consists of lace, frills and more – picture Little Miss Muffet or Little Bo Peep! I’ve only seen this while cosplaying at anime conventions, but some Tokyo seriously walk around in this stuff! Interestingly, no one seems to really take a second glace either. I pass a 2-floor store devoted to Loli-fashion and accessories, but am a little scared to go on in…

* More on fashion, the unofficial young person’s ‘uniform’ seems to be a short skit or short shorts, over-the-knee socks, and heels or clompy boots. Doesn’t look at all comfortable, but very popular with teenage girls here. I see many girls walking around awkwardly in such outfits (including two heavily pregnant women!), especially as the evening draws on. The streets get impossibly crowded and intersections are CRAZY! Outfits outrageous and getting shorter and shorter (it is Saturday night), as people start hitting clubs/bards in the area. Matt and I find ourselves somehow in a sleazy part of the district, signs everywhere advertising strip clubs, peep shows, ‘maid’ massage parlours and more! We circle around and get thoroughly lost – and I thought other parts of Tokyo were confusing! Getting back to our hotel later that night is sheer bliss (phew!)

* McDonalds stores in Tokyo have 100Y sundaes after 2pm ~ bonus!

* We’re both absolutely exhausted and think our past few days have been almost TOO fast-paced, planning a quieter one tomorrow. Muscles ache from hours on our feet and I don’t know the last time I felt this tired! (NB: By the morning I’ve come down with a fever, which develops into a cold. Thankfully I’m over it within a couple of days and it doesn’t affect our plans too much!).