Japan Diaries [Day 10]

Day 10 [October 5th]

* We’re given free passes to breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant, which promise both Japanese and Western-style food. It turns out to be mainly Japanese (rice, miso soup, cold/hot fish, salad), but there’s also bread rolls, jam, natural yoghurt and diced fruits. This turns out to be plenty (OMG – toast!! Bliss!), I OD on yoghurt and fruit, two things I’ve had little of (and am missing) here in Japan.

* The sun beats down as Matt and I walk to Nijo-jo (Nijo Castle; about 1.5km away) at about 10am. We end up walking in the complete wrong direction, but find narrow streets with pedestrians, cyclists and small grocery stores – this feels more ‘local’ Japan than anything I’ve experienced so far. I buy a HUGE apple for later (cheaply; fruit is quite expensive in Japan, or at least in the cities) and am glad we found this area.

* Nijo-jo is tourist heaven, lots of tour/school groups, but with the grounds being so big, it doesn’t feel all that cramped (just disconcerting arriving and finding ten buses parked out the front!). The grounds consist of a castle built in the 1600s, extended (more buildings and gardens) and restored gradually since the 1940s. We take our shoes and socks off and explore the part of the castle open to the public on the inside (no photography allowed). The worn-down wooden boards are almost shiny from wear in parts, and feel nice on the feet. The squeak that emanates from every step was actually part of the original design, to stop people sneaking into the palace undetected (stealth ninjas, anyone?). There are three separate gardens to visit and photograph, and an exhibition of real wall panel artworks from the 1600s (reproductions of these hang in the open-to-public sections of the palace). Very cool, we spend much time taking in all of the wonderful artworks. :)

* We later wander along the streets, lunch in a Japanese equivalent to ‘fast food’ – an udon (thick noodle) shop, where you select your noodle and/or meat, and go along the counters to add plates/bowls of stuff to your meal. We choose stewed beef with our udon, and a fried vegetable fritter each (is this the Kyoto version of okonomiyaki?). Other choices included tempura, marinated vegetables, rice triangles, salad, tofu, omelette and more! (Marisa, I thought of you so much in this place – you would have loved it!). We add a meaty broth and garnishes of spring onion – yum. So full afterward though, it keeps us going all afternoon. We both agree that places like this should exist in Melbourne!

* Following our map takes us to the International Manga Museum, which we thought might turn out to be a small room or floor of a building, but turns out to be housed in an ENTIRE former primary (elementary) school! Apparently the 40,000-strong volumes of manga (yes, I’m serious) were part of a lending library in Shinjuku (Tokyo), which closed in 2005. Now people can come in and pay a small fee, and read as much manga as they want on premises – on the various chairs, couches, beanbags and sun-lounges scattered both inside and in courtyards outdoors. Unfortunately for me it is all in Japanese *sniffs*, so I have to be content with loading up on CLAMP titles and relaxing with my mini-stack of manga :P

* The museum also has a special ‘Samurai in Manga’ exhibit that Matt and I visit (which turns out to be more interesting than I originally thought!). I highly recommend this place if you’re an anime/manga fan and are visiting Kyoto. We just ended up there, rather than having it on our ‘to-do list’ from Australia.

* We head back to the hotel for a bit, then out to downtown Kyoto for the evening, having a snack instead of dinner (remember, lunch was filling!). I buy some figurines from Super Position, as well as drooling over expensive Star Ocean 2 figurines (which I’ve never seen before!). Also spend at least half an hour exploring a two-floor chopstick shop, specialising in children’s tableware. I get gifts for so many people in this store. Mum, Dad, Marisa, the ladies at Kinder… the list continues! Souvenir shopping almost officially complete. ;)