I cycled from Amman across the mountains and along the Dead Sea coast to reach the heat in the desert. After 4 days cycling trip in Jordan and 3 days in Aqaba city on the coast I cycled to the desert to Bedouin camp to spend some time there. I contacted a Brazilian volunteer girl to ask about my arrival. She and her friend agreed to welcome me so I went there by bike by night in the light of almost full moon. First km where hard as I left just after I had eaten food and there were many hills to cross and many trucks that passed me on the highway.
Than after 40 km I turned to the desert narrow road experiencing unforgotten moments in that landscape.
In early morning before the sunrise at 4 am I passed a police check point to the Nature National Park and was invited by one young policemen for tea... i don't like uniforms but a tea and see what's up around was for experience too. After few cups of tea I went to rest on my mattress and just in got up to observe a charming sun-rise. the Sun was coming out of the mountains. when the Sun was some length above I left further and cycled across to meet people from the camp. I called and they came by 4xwheels car to take me into the deep desert covert with rocks and hard sand mountains.
The landscape charmed me and let me feel like at home... in the Nature. The nice Brazilian girl and nice local nomad Bedouin man drove me to the camp located just in front of the high rock mountains. Silence, peace, birds and desert sand.... no electricity but the bone-fire and candles. they have sometimes backpackers who pay a bit and stay over one or two nights to stay in the big tents and we cook for them. The girl became vegan and we cook vegan but the local guy called Moosa cooks chicken on the fire. We met some people from Taiwan, China, Germany, France, Holland, Austria and other countries sharing the travel stories and talking about the life.
I spent 4 days there and had 2 jeep tours around the huge dessert and across the canyons there. Me and the girl decided to hitch-hike across some lands and visit some interesting places in Jordan. We traveled for 8 days. The people who dropped us to the places or just some km where very open to help and even many times shared tea, food or their home with us. I had a chance to meet the culture here much closer and it made me stronger in believes that patriarchy and the society based on it has just one solution that is mind revolution to stop inequality between men and women in Jordan and elsewhere where the religion dominates the family and the society life.
Jordan is the most religious country I have aver been to. The fundamental Muslims rules the life inside. Women have no rights at all. just in the capital of Jordan is a bit better where women can drive a car alone and go for a walk sometimes but just with family members. to have more freedom they have to fight strongly.
I discussed with men (young and old), in general the male part of the family and society and i am shocked what is in their head, mind and brain. What they believe in is shaking my head. Men, no matter what age can do whatever they wish. Men can go out alone, sleep over wherever they want for how long they wish without informing anyone about the place they are. They drink, smoke stuff and have paid sex or with tourists as they tell us. But... the female part of the family stays at home slaved like dogs in a kennel with the chain and collar. They cant go out. they can show their faces just at home and just to family members. When there is a guest they have no right to go out the kitchen or in more liberal family just covered (more liberal covered hair, less liberal covered face). Women have no right to speak about what men do. They cant question the men behavior. Women are just to cook, take care of children (up to 10 kids) and clean the house or wash dishes and clothes. We had many arguments with male part of the families and couldn't just shut up our mounts not reacting for the situation.
Men say that the God Allah said the women and the animals and trees are for men. If women goes out alone it means she is a bitch and slut as they say. A girls or a woman cant have a male friend. The schools are divided fro boys and girls. Just at the university the classes are mixed.... but they cant show friendship between each other.
We did some revolution at many homes and risked a lot. It is good to travel with a woman speaking in the women name not only me as a male. They learnt to listen to a women, my friend. They learned to argue with a women about the women rights issue.
Women do most of things for men. I try to help cooking, cleaning and so on wherever it was possible to make the men confused and embarrassed. We both with a friend thanked for food and tea prepared by daughters, sisters or wives.
i visited with a friend little Petra ancient civilization remains like caves and the city in the rocks. We went to Dana village up the mountains on the side of the canyon where we slept in a cooperative hotel where we helped and slept for free. We went to Shoubak castle with a driver who became our friend. The older man was like our father taking care of us and showing the castle letting us stay for free in the camp in the mountains at his friend's place or after 2 days when we came back he let us stay in his old family house in the abandoned village in the valley. The sunsets there where just amazing and unique. We came back to the caves where we stayed over a night with some Bedouins and guests from Bulgaria (Haskovo) and Germany. We had stayed in a strict fundamental Muslim family home after having been invited home but just after we had long conversation that lasted few hours about anarchism, freedom, justice, peace, equality and solidarity. We were just 2 people on one side of the discussion barricade and on other the men speaking in the name of the God. The brother of the father of the daughters and sons told me that I will be burnt in the hell if I don't convert myself to Islam :):) The next day we had a breakfast with the family and chilled out. The 103 years old women came to the living room and kissed me and my friend wishing good things to us. I asked my friend to ask the family to take a photo with them (I mentioned her and the old lady). The family said no no it is not possible.... but the old lady show more openness and invited my friend to photo and just after she invited me. She broke the rule with an honest smile and open heart. I wish the men learned from her how to open the mind.
After a big travel experience I came back to the desert camp and stayed 3 days. Today we hitch-hiked to Aqaba city to use internet and see the gulf of the Red Sea. Tomorrow we will go back and on Wednesday back to Aqaba by bicycle that i left on the desert. on Thursday I will try to get to Israel (Palestine under occupation). I will have a lot of questions on the border about my staying in Arab countries and I hope they let me in. I will travel around Israel/Palestine and join the social protests there and in Palestine against the racist segregation 12 meters high wall.
I will update my new journey stories and photos. I have been cycling and hitch-hiking through the world since June 2010. over 15 months on the road now and this is just the beginning :)
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