tourist day

I crawled into bed at 11:30 last night, and was probably out by midnight. I had set the alarm for 6am, but I didn’t need it. At 5:00 I was wake. My eyes snapped open like someone flipping a switch. But that was ok, because I already had a plan: .... The Fish Market.

If it can be caught, it’s there. I’m told it’s one of the biggest fish markets on the planet. Tunas the size of steamer trunks. Scallops like dinner plates. Hundreds, no thousands, of other wet oddities I could never identify. They say most of Japan’s seafood starts its day in the Tokyo market, and most of that will be eaten by nightfall. At this hour much of it was still wiggling. The place was such a beehive of activity that it was very difficult to take pictures. I have no idea if I caught anything.

Next stop: Hama-Rikyu Gardens.

I realize that I haven’t mentioned the weather. It’s been as nice as I could hope for in mid February. Mid-50’s during the day, chilly at night. No rain, and no real wind to complain about. The slight chill just makes me walk a little quicker. The warmth of walking adds a little motivation when I’ve been loitering someplace.

Today only solidified something I was pondering for days. The common gardening skills over here are superior to most greenhouse guru’s back home. Every tree is a natural sculpture. Even those on street sides. Each one is given thought. This doesn’t mean there are no “wild” trees. There are. Some plants are left to run free. Most, are not. Most are living art. Heck, the rooftop garden at the hotel is something any US arboretum would be beyond happy to have.

I think it comes down to patience. That’s one of many words that seem to describe Japan. The Japan way is not a rush. It has a proper rightness about it that cannot be hurried. Trees planted last season seem to get the same care as the black pine leftover from the 6th Shogun. Slow, ponderous care. And patience.


While in the garden I was approached by an elderly Japanese woman who started chatting with me. The idea was chatting, but it was a little slower than that. I think she just wanted to practice her english. She was fun, exuberant, and very kind. I got a kick out of the experience. (She’s been to Las Vegas, and thinks it’s a wonderful country. insert my laugh and smiles here.)

Up the road was the Ginza. This is the high dollar adult shopping district. Shops like Tiffany’s have store-space on this street. I gave it a quick browse. It’s a bit priced-up to loiter for too long.

From here I metro’d to the Meiji Temple and the surrounding acres of gardens and ponds. This one is Shinto, and quite different from the previous two Buddhist temples I have visited. It’s not the oldest, but it is the biggest of the Shinto efforts. Image all the kung-fu movies you’ve seen. The big courtyards and training warriors. That’s it, only quieter, with more reverence and less carnage. Great gardens here too. I noted, and took advantage of, the fact that these were the first gardens, or lawns anywhere, that people were allowed to tread on. For the first time there was no, “keep off grass,” signs. Lying in the sun beneath these interesting trees was a pleasant break for my worn feet. These trees are also groomed. It’s like a bonsai garden, only they’re 20-50 feet tall. The lawns are still brown from the winter, so I’m sure the magic I imagined was only a fraction of the springtime glow this place will soon have.

Nearby was another big retail district. I roamed and picked up a few trinkets. I’ve shopped more on this trip than any other. Next visit I’ll make a better effort to get out of the city. I perused a grocery store for my dinner of dim sum like bits and sushi. I ate it on a street bench.

Eventually I got back to the hotel. Much worn. Sleep will come fast tonight.